It’s been years since we last looked at White Burgundy so it’s time to take a fresh January look at the greatest white wine region in the world.

In theory at least, it’s easy to understand White Burgundy because it’s all Chardonnay (well, about 99 per cent of it anyway) but as with its red counterpart there are so many different appellations within the region that it starts to fuzz your brain.

Confusion is Burgundy’s gift to the wine world, but if like me you find a couple of styles that you are comfortable with, it can be the start of a life-long love story. Take my advice and forget the basic Bourgogne Blancs unless you are on a budget holiday, but above them is a treasure trove of styles. My favourites are Chablis, St Veran, Pouilly Fuisse, Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet.

I also simply adore Batard Montrachet but unless you drop the euro millions, it’s pointless chatting about them. Chablis is the steely and largely unoaked style with the vines grown on chalky soil which imparts a clean, mineral taste to the wines. My favourites are the Premier Crus which are just that little bit more approachable than the often intense and smoky Grand Crus but it all depends on the occasion and food pairing.

St Veran is my go-to style with fish dishes, especially a lovely crab salad in the summer while the lightly oaked Pouilly Fuisse wines are just delightful on their own. The Montrachets are just oaky delights, and winemakers around the world copy their toasty buttery style, but few New World wines have the complexity of a Puligny or the depth of a Chassagne or Mersault. They are far too good to waste without food but their power and finesse are a match for most light meats and nut-based vegetarian dishes so cook away – and don’t forget to give me a call if you do drop the lotto.

GERARD’S CHOICES

  • Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuisse: Rich and powerful with white flowers on the nose and cool stone fruit on the palate. The finish is crisp and refreshing with a hint of vanilla... quite sublime. Richardson’s of Whitehaven, £28.95.
  • Domaine Laroche Premier Cru Chablis: Citrus aromas with a firm mineral palate and a rich zesty finish. Shill’s of Cockermouth, £39.50.